Sick Tree Treatment
Steve Bridges

Chances are you moved to Bastrop County for the trees. Our beautiful Pine, Oak, and Juniper trees are what separate us from other places in Texas like Odessa or far South Texas. Indeed, Bastrop calls itself extra special by being located in the 'Lost Pines'. We sometimes take the trees around us for granted. Then that one special tree or group of trees on our property starts to show signs of stress. If the sick tree or group of trees were in the forest, their dying would be a natural course of things. In our landscape, their loss can take a significant toll on our property values and general aesthetic value. So when a tree starts showing signs of stress we naturally want to save them.

Trees show signs of stress for various reasons. Our most abundant oak in the area is the Post Oak, which has a very tender root system. Most often it is new construction that bothers this oak. When we drive or park under these trees, or put in a new addition to our homes in their proximity, these trees slowly start to show signs of this stress. Many other species of trees are just now showing decline due to the intense drought from the last four years. It can sometimes take 2-3 years for a tree to start showing signs of stress. But given time, and a little help from us, a tree can once again become healthy. The following method works because it builds up the immune system of the tree, once again making it healthy and able to fight off disease and insect problems.

Howard Garrett, a radio personality that hosts "The Natural Way", a gardening call-in show on WBAP-820AM from Dallas, first proposed this method of saving trees. He calls it the Sick Tree Treatment. I used it on a 45 foot oak that had two foot of tip die-back over the whole crown of the tree. This year, after two treatments, the tree has returned to its most beautiful state, producing lush growth on the outer edges of the crown. Here is the method.

1. Aerate the root zone of the tree. Compacted soils make it difficult for air and water to penetrate. A large, 1½ inch drill bit, used with a large drill, can be used to drill holes in the earth that are 6-12 inches deep and about 18 inches on center in a staggered formation. With a large tree, start 6-7 feet from the base of the tree and go 2-3 feet past the drip-line of the tree.
2. Apply Texas greensand at about 40 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft., lava sand at about 80 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft., horticultural cornmeal at about 10-20 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. and sugar or dry molasses at about 5 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. Cornmeal is a natural disease fighter and sugar is a source of carbon, the microbes' energy source.
3. Apply a ½ inch to one inch layer of compost, followed by a one to two inch layer of mulch. I prefer the Native Texas Hardwood Mulch because as it decays, it helps to build the health of the soil. It also has shredded cedar mulch in it which helps to ward off insects.
4. Spray the foliage of the tree and the soil, monthly, with a soil stimulator. Good ones include the Lady Bug Brand's Terra Tonic, or Howard Garrett's Garrett Juice. Both of these products help re-build the healthy life of the soil.
5. Stop using synthetic chemicals around the tree such as Weed and Feed lawn fertilizers, insecticides, fungicides, etc. These products destroy the life in the soil, which is exactly what you are trying to encourage by using the sick tree treatment.

Water everything in once complete if no rain is expected. Be aware that you will not see immediate results. Trees are slow growing and will take time to show improvement. These ingredients can now be purchased in a ready-to-use product that we have here at the nursery. For larger areas, you can purchase the separate ingredients and pre-mix yourself that will cover larger areas more inexpensively. If you have any questions, please call us. We are here to help!

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